Easy tie dye patterns, shibori techniques and ideas

Easy tie dye patterns, shibori techniques and ideas

My first real tie-dye project was a sizeable man’s vest I transformed to wear at a Bob Dylan concert one sunny summer day back in 1984. Back then, I still harboured hopes of one day becoming the next Mrs Dylan, and I am certain that the tie dye vest felt potentially pivotal. It was a plain white cotton M&S number that I had great fun tying up with elastic bands in concentric circles before dyeing it a deep coral pink. I defy anyone not to feel a thrill as you sploosh your garments around in buckets of your chosen colour, before unwrapping and untying to reveal the pattern you’ve created. I wore my tie-dye creation with pride, layered over multiple other vests (that actually fitted me) in true 80s style with SO many bangles on my arms that I jangled as I moved and a wide belt slung around my hips (to hitch up the vest and stop it totally swamping me). 

There was a moment during Visions of Johanna where I could have sworn Bob actually caught my eye and held my gaze. I *may* have started to scream a little bit at that point, before reminding myself that I was eye-balling the great man through powerful binoculars from far, far away. I was forced to accept that with a good 10 thousand people or more between us, even the brightest of bright tie dye vests wasn’t going to catch Bob’s attention. Probably for the best in hindsight… as I was way too young and I am certain my bangles would have infuriated him. 

Fast forward a few decades from that first time tinkering with tie dye and I’m heading to the Cotswolds for round two. Fabric designer Vanessa Arbuthnott and her daughter Flora had kindly invited me to a shibori indigo dye workshop at their studio near Cirencester. The blissful day I spent with them there took my understanding of – and love for – resistance dyeing to a whole new level.

Read my write up about the whole day: https://www.frombritainwithlove.com/shibori-indigo-dye-workshop-with-flora-arbuthnott/

Tie dye patterns, shibori techniques and ideas

For our purposes here, I’ve also distilled the key tricks and tips I learned that day for creating patten, using resistance and dye to share with you. We were encouraged to experiment with easy tie dye patterns using pegs, string, buttons, clamps and folding. If you fancy the idea, I’d urge you to just have a go and see where it takes you.

It’s all about keeping the starting base white/pale areas away from your dye by creating resistance. First technique we tried at the workshop was to concertina the fabric and then fold and clamp it, using wooden or plastic shapes to create pattern. The shapes provide resistance to the dye as it makes its way through the layers of fabric. Margarine tubs are great for cutting out shapes to create patterns and clamp to the material. I made a petal shape, which worked well. The darkest folds would be the outer layers while the faintest would be those in the middle. This is because the dye has further to penetrate into the deeper layers. 

To achieve a line effect, pleat the fabric and add running stitch where you’d like the lines to go. Create circles by tying bands or string around beads or buttons. To create concentric rings, just tie in multiple ties further out around the same button/bead. Stitching in clumps can also create interesting patterns, as can simply tying sections with string. 

I was particularly inspired by the different patterns created by the traditional Japanese shibori technique. Find more details about the history and variations of shibori dye here: https://craftatlas.co/crafts/shibori)

I love this example Vanessa showed me of a length of partially still-bound shibori fabric she’d bought in China. We marvelled at how much work it would have been to bind up so many sections by hand (it was a sizeable length of fabric). And I really enjoyed watching her open up a few more of the sections to reveal the pattern created. There’s definitely something thrilling about this particular method of pattern creation.

Tie dye kits

A tie-dye kit can be a great way to get started and Etsy has lots of ideas. I really like this tie dye/ice dye/shibori kit

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/822950164/personalised-ice-dye-kit-vegan-soil

This kit is perfect for making a tie dye t-shirt as well as dyeing your own fabric for quilt making. The step-by-step instructions make it super easy.

The prettily boxed kit includes 3 colours of high quality Procion fibre reactive dye (scroll down for more info on Procion). When combined with the soda ash included in the kit these dyes produce beautiful and permanent colours that don’t fade. There is enough dye in this kit to dye at least 10m worth of fabric and there are loads of colour options to choose from. I love the Terracotta (which creates beautiful coral and icy blue tones when ice dyed).
This is a cute indigo tie dye kit: https://amzn.to/4dLuGiw

Another great kit option: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1029831916/ice-dye-kit-create-your-own-rainbow

What is ice dye?

Ice dyeing is sprinkling dry dye powder onto (or under) ice cubes, letting the cubes melt while pulling colours down onto the fabric you’re dyeing. This Youtube tutorial is great to take you through the steps to having a go at ice dyeing yourself.

Most popular tie-dye patterns

​Scrunch patterns

Scrunch technique (sometimes also called crumple technique) – is a really fun and free way to create pattern. The idea is that you literally scrunch up fabric to create an almost marbled effect and either secure with bands/string/stitches or leave unsecured for a looser pattern. Start, as with all tie dye projects with a light or white cotton or natural fibre garment or item. Wash and leave damp (don’t use fabric conditioner) and then scrunch away to create a mound ready for adding dye or dyes. Add your dye (Tulip Dyes (this is a great starter kit from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3VZe1RH already contain soda ash so you don’t need to pre-soak and can add directly to your fabric). A good way to do this is to put your scrunched item over a clean cooling rack, and apply the dye colour or colours to sections as you turn over the item. Place in a plastic bag overnight before rinsing in cold water. then washing in line with your dye instructions.

How to create a spiral pattern.

This is one of the easiest tie dye patterns to do and great fun. Lay your garment flat and then pinch where you’d like the spiral centre to be. Then start turning and twirling the fabric around and around until the whole thing is twisted into a spiral shape. Secure with plastic bands and apply your dye. 

There are lots of different ways to get great results when it comes to pattern. My best advice would be to just have fun and experiment. Just remember it’s all about providing resistance to the dye to create a pattern. 

Sunburst design

This is one of the most popular tie dye patterns. Similar to the spiral technique above (but without the swirling). Pinch the fabric where you’d like the centre of the sunburst to be and pull up an inch or two before securing with rubber band. Repeat for as many sunbursts as you’d like. Lay your garment flat, with the tied fabric lumps you’ve created sitting proud. apply your dye to the fabric tips. Apply a different colour dye to the rest of the tee shirt. Then follow setting/rinsing instructions for the particular dye you’re using. 

Folding technique

An accordion fold (which is exactly what it sounds like) is where you fold the fabric into even pleats and either secure with stitches, rubber bands applied at intervals, or with clamps. This will create vertical stripes if you fold left to right of your fabric item. 

How to get horizontal stripes

Obviously just use the same technique folding from top to bottom to create horizontal stripes.

Bullseye tie dye patterns – how to get the look

This is another super easy pattern to create. Simply lay your newly washed garment flat (still damp but as before, don’t use fabric conditioner). Pinch where you’d like the centre of the bullseye to be. Continue to pinch and pull the fabric up from this point into a cone shape and secure with elastic bands where you’d like to create radiating rings.

Shibori-inspired designs

As mentioned above, I spent an inspiring day with Flora Arbuthnott learning all about indigo dye and how to achieve Shibori-inspired patterns. Read my post here:

WHY PROCION?

Procion MX dyes are fibre-reactive cold water dyes. They are fixed chemically instead of with heat. They are perfect for tie-dye, batik, shibori, ice dyeing, bucket and low water immersion dyeing, printing, direct painting and other dye applications.
The Procion shades are all intermix-able, permanent & colourfast dye powder. The range produces intense, vibrant results. The dye and soda-ash is vegan and not tested on animals. The dye is also soil friendly and easily broken down by soil microbes easily.
Jacquard sells a wide range of procion dyes in lots of different colours – including this popular kit: https://amzn.to/3QN7uqv

Basics of tie-dye and essential tips for best results

You will need 

• Cold water dye.
• It’s best not to use all-purpose dye for tie dying because it will run and fade more than a fibre-reactive dye such as Procion or Tulip dyes.
• Fibre-reactive dyes are low-impact synthetic dyes that directly bond with the garment fibres rather than merely remaining as an independent chemical entity within the fibre.
• One of their benefits is that they contain no heavy metals or other known toxic substances, and do not need mordants.
• Soda ash (or sodium carbonate) – used as a fixative and brightener for dyes on natural fabrics such as linen, cotton or hemp.
• To use soda ash to brighten your next tie-dye project, try dissolving a cup of sodium carbonate in a gallon of water, and soak your cotton/linen/hemp items for 15 minutes or so, to make sure the solution has penetrated the fibres. Wring out the excess water, then apply the fibre-reactive dye to the damp fabric. 
• Items suitable for tie dye projects eg cotton tee shirts (go for white or light colours in natural fibres)
• tote bags – again go for natural or pale cotton
• cotton shirts (a white shirt is a good bet)
• Rubber bands
• Other useful equipment:
• plastic bag or plastic wrap
• tongs
• rubber gloves
• covering for your work surface (eg old oilcloth or newspaper)
• clothes line/drying rack

The soak

This is where your dye will set and is usually done inside plastic bags or wrapped in plastic wrap to keep the dye moist. Check your particular dye instructions but this part of the process normally takes between 8 -24 hours. The longer you leave the garment to soak, the more intense your colours will be.

Rinsing your tie dye garments

Follow your specific dye’s instructions, but in general terms, it’s best to rinse your tie dye garments under cold water, with all bands/string etc still in place until the water runs clear. This can take quite some time, but it’s important not to cut corners here. 

Once the water is running clear, remove the bands/string. Continue to rinse in cold water until water runs clear again.

How to wash tie-dyed garments

It’s important to wash your tie dyed garments straight after rinsing to stop colours bleeding into the white areas. A popular tip to increase colour fastness: Soak your garments in equal parts white vinegar and water for 30 minutes after rinsing and before first wash.

Check the specific instructions for the particular dye you are using. But in general, cold water is the key to successful tie dye washing. 

Fill a large basin with cold water and add mild detergent once the basin is full.

Gently wash your garment in the solution.

Drain, refill and repeat until the water runs clear.

You can wash in your washing machine on a cold/gentle cycle. Keep separate from other colours for the first few washes.

I hope you’ve enjoyed discovering these easy tie dye patterns, shibori techniques and ideas. For more creative ideas, browse the MAKE section of my blog