From Britain with Love

Orkney is a group of over 60 islands situated off the north-east coast of Scotland.

It has only been part of the UK since the 15th century. Prior to that it was part of the old Norse Empire and still has strong links with Norway.

On the main island of Orkney you can visit the oldest and best preserved archaeological village in Northern Europe. Skara Brae is over 5,000 years old and is amazingly well preserved with a number of houses containing the original stone furniture.

For those whose interests are more modern there is the Italian Chapel, built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II who were billeted in Orkney to build causeways between the mainland of Orkney and three of its southern islands. It was painstakingly restored to its former beauty by its original architect in 1960, and it is now one of Orkney’s most popular visitor attractions.

The capital of Orkney is Kirkwall, a city and Royal Burgh. It is home to the unique sandstone built St Magnus Cathedral (pictured) which is owned by the people of Orkney rather than the church, and contains a memorial to HMS Royal Oak which was sunk in nearby Scapa Flow by a German U-Boat at the start of World War II with the loss of 833 lives.

So, if you have an interest in history, whether it's  the Stone Age, wartime or something in between, Orkney is a truly great place to spend some time. And if you have an interest in birdlife you will find flocks of oystercatchers, lapwings and curlews as well as puffins and hen harriers. In addition, there are seals and killer whales, some of Britain’s finest wild brown trout fishing, and stunning walks that will reward you at every turn.
 

The Orkney Islands are a treasure trove of fine locally made products including gold and silver jewellery, knitwear, textiles, artwork, soft furnishings, furniture and pottery – in fact there's something for everyone. You can fine these in Orkney’s shops and visitor attractions, or pick up a copy of the Orkney Craft Trail booklet and visit the places where many of these products are actually being made.

In Kirkwall, one of the shops that stocks a wide range of local craft, food and drink is Judith Glue. Located at the opposite end of Kirkwall near the Cathedral is the Sheila Fleet Gallery which also stocks a wide range of local crafts. But don't worry if you can't make it to Orkney just yet, as both shops sell online, enabling you to enjoy the best of Orkney crafts wherever you live.

In Stromness, Orkney’s second largest centre, look out for Quernstone which sells a tempting array of women's knitwear made from a British silk and lambswool mix yarn (below, centre). The products are all hand framed and finished by a small group of women in Orkney, and they are also available to buy online.

One of the most comprehensive ranges of local crafts to be found in Orkney is at the Visitor Centre of the intriguing Tomb of the Eagles located on the island of South Ronaldsay, about half an hours drive from Kirkwall, and well worth a visit.

While you're on this island make sure you also visit the Hoxa Tapestry Gallery where you will see the most amazing tapestries being made by Leila Thompson in her studio. Her husband Benny creates framed prints of some of Leila’s creations which have proved extremely popular with visitors.

If you'd like to see your chosen product being made, try the Orkney Craft Trail. You can visit some or all of the featured craft workshops but whatever you do, don’t miss a visit to Orkney Hand Crafted Furniture where Fraser Anderson makes traditional Orkney chairs, stools and tables (below, centre) as well as a range of hand-crafted giftware. You can usually watch Fraser at work on an Orkney straw backed chair (above, left) or even commission him to make one to your own specification.

Seeing jewellery made is fascinating and there’s nowhere better to see this than at Sheila Fleet Jewellery (above, right) because all of her jewellery is designed, cast and finished in her workshop in Deerness, just a few minutes drive from Kirkwall.

Orkney is famous for its extensive range of quality food and drink, and it also has a reputation for great tea rooms. Birsay Tea Rooms is one of the finest with a mouthwatering menu of home-cooked food made from locally sourced products, and enjoys extensive views over to the Brough of Birsay, making it a great choice for lunch or afternoon tea.

If you are in Kirkwall at lunchtime, one of the best places to sample genuine local food is Helgis. Your choice from the menu will be cooked by Anne Stewart who has tutored many successful young chefs and has a real passion for locally produced food.

When the sun goes down and your thoughts turn to dinner, choose from The Foveran (pictured) or The Lynnfield just outside of Kirkwall. Or if you fancy going a bit further afield, you could try to get a table at The Creel restaurant at St Margaret’s Hope. All of these restaurants have chefs who pride themselves on using only the finest fresh, local produce.

Both The Foveran and The Creel restaurants have excellent en-suite accommodation with the added bonus of a really great breakfast to set you up for the day before setting off to explore more of Orkney’s delights.

Then there’s The Lynnfield Hotel (pictured) which has recently undergone a complete refurbishment and now offers characterful accommodation including deluxe bedrooms and suites, all finished in period style with antique furniture and luxury bathrooms.

If you prefer the freedom of self-catering accommodation which is full of character you could try the Auld Kirk at Finstown, which offers three luxurious 3-bedroom apartments in a refurbished former Church. Or there’s Rickla, Orkney’s highest rated 5-star accommodation, located right in the Neolithic heartland of Orkney, with Maeshowe, the Ring of Brodgar and the Neolithic village of Skara Brae only minutes away.

There’s so much to see and do, from the 5,000 year old village at Skara Brae (pictured), to the Corrigal Farm Museum where time stands still and you can experience life as it was in Orkney a century ago. But there are also the simple pleasures of walking and cycling, or you could try your hand at fly-fishing with one of Orkney’s expert ghillies.

Orkney is famous for its huge sky and wonderful light that has attracted artists and photographers in their droves for many years. If you visit during June you can experience this at its best as it hardly gets dark at all. But don’t expect a summer sun holiday; Orkney is about discovery and a rewarding experience that you’ll never forget.